Asparagus season is short, so give it a proper brunch. The spears get wrapped in bacon and roasted until crisp, then go on the plate with a soft poached egg and plenty of lemony hollandaise. The hollandaise is the bit people get nervous about, but a stick blender does the heavy lifting: hot butter in a slow stream and it’s thick and glossy in about a minute. A spring weekend brunch that feels like a café order, minus the queue.


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